Fat Kid Friday: Old Fashioned Apple Stack Cake

Before Thanksgiving, I was thinking a lot about family and especially those who aren't with us anymore. I was thinking about how I wanted to make a dish that really meant something to us. And the food memory that kept coming back to me was hearing my grandpa talk about the apple stack cake his mom used to make. And I decided that in honor of his memory (and in part, hers) I'd try to make it.

I found a recipe from a very reliable source, Lynn Rosetto Kasper's The Splendid Table program from American Public Media (airs Saturdays at noon on NPR, streams online) and made the cake for my parents' Thanksgiving dinner.

And it was a hit. Just seeing the tall cake, with gooey layers thrilled my parents and they gushed about how much Grandpa would've loved it.

Dad immediately gave me suggestions on how to make it more like Mamaw Alma's cake: under-cooking the layers and going heavier on the apple butter.

The pictures were shared on Facebook and a work colleague demanded I bring my apple stacks to our employee holiday party. With some tweaks to the recipe (reflected below in shorter cooking times & more butter), I brought a beautiful cake to the party.

And, it turns out almost every Southern family has strong, vivid memories and joyous feelings tied to the apple stack cakes of their childhood. I had two folks actually tell me they'd just had a long discussion about the cakes their mothers used to make and were shocked to see mine. There was a sweet chatter through the whole party of "Who brought this?" and "It reminds me so much of...."

To me, there are two important elements in a successful recipe.

One is that it makes something delicious; and that is certainly true for this cake. The cake layers are essentially giant sugar cookies that are sweet, yet delicately flavored and the apple butter is powerfully flavored with cinnamon and nutmeg. These two elements sandwiched together makes for a beautifully balanced bite. And the texture is just as perfect - soft and crumbly cake with smooth sweetness. It's not a perfectly designed, stunning cake, it's simple and even more simple-looking, but the flavor is out-of-this-world.

The other element of a successful recipe, which is even more important and is the reason we all crave foods from our past (even mom's awful meatloaf), are the food feelings. Where you feel so strongly about a bite that it can take you back in time, to remember every detail of the dish, the United States place mat or the way your hair would always fall onto your plate. I read a book once, called "The Particular Sadness of Lemon Cake" about a girl who suddenly can taste all of the emotions inside of food. It almost drives her mad - being able to taste the tears of her mom as she baked following a fight with her husband, or the frustration of her dad trying to figure out how to cook on his own. But I related to it so well, not from the madness, but the joy of tasting a memory or the feelings of a cook. And this cake does that to people. My co-workers expressed being able to taste me reaching out to my Grandpa and how much I must have loved him and wanted to please him; and they too, were able to go back to someone they loved.

With these two elements met, I have to rule this recipe as a success and encourage you to make it sometime for the people you love.

However, there's an addendum to this post; find the recipe that takes you back and gives you vivid food memories, or that will make new memories for your loved ones.

Old Fashioned Apple Stack Cake

Adapted from The Splendid Table

Ingredients:

1 c. granulated sugar

3/4 c. firmly packed light brown sugar

2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature

5 1/2 c all-purpose flour

2 t. baking powder

1 1 /2 t baking soda

1 t salt

1 t ground cinnamon

2/3 c buttermilk

2 large eggs

1 t vanilla extract

2 1/2 c+ apple butter (I used Smuckers in a pinch, but apple butter is very easy and inexpensive to make at home, in a crock pot)

Powdered sugar for garnish 

Method:

Preheat oven to 400. Grease/flour the cake pans (see note below). 

Cream the butter, sugars and butter together at medium speed until quite fluffy (3-5 minutes), scraping the bowl occasionally. In a medium bowl sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon; set aside. In a small bowl whisk together the buttermilk, eggs and vanilla. 

Add a third of the flour mixture to the creamed butter; mix just until combined at medium-low speed. Add half of the buttermilk mixture and mix just to combine. Repeat, adding another third of the flour mixture, then the remaining buttermilk, and the remaining flour mixture. 

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead four times. Roll into a cylinder about 18 inches long. Cut the cylinder into 6 equal parts; press each part into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. You could make the dough disks up to a day in advance. 

On a lightly floured surface, roll out one disk to a 10 inch circle. Using a cake pan as a guide, trim the dough into a 9 inch circle, then lay into a greased pan to bake. Repeat with other disc; three at a time, if possible. 

Bake for 3 minutes, then rotate the pans in the oven, and bake 2-3 more minutes until lightly browned and beginning to pull away from the pan. Remove from the oven and cool the pans on wire racks for 10 minutes. Remove the layers and set aside. Continue with the remaining discs. You will probably have enough dough left to knead together a seventh layer. 

Choose your prettiest, smoothest layer for the top and set aside.

Place one layer on your cake plate then top with a little bit more than 1/2 a cup of apple butter; close to 3/4 a cup. Top with another cake layer, more apple butter; repeat. Leave the top layer "undressed" with apple butter.

Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least overnight. Around 36 hours makes for the best softness of the cake; where the apple butter soaks in and makes the texture perfect.

When ready to serve, dust the top of the cake with powdered sugar. Slice into thin slices.